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Friday, April 6, 2012

On Beyond Zadar

An amazing day in Croatia. We woke to brilliant sunshine, though rain was predicted, and it stayed that way all day. Walked from our hotel (the pink palace in the photo) to the Old Town of Zadar, where we investigated St. Donatus, a Romanesque church from the 900s, and climbed the bell tower (302 steps. Ouch).

There was a big Roman presence in Zadar, and the old forum ruins remain. And there's a gorgeous waterfront with something I've never seen (or heard) before -- a sea organ. Listen to it here: The sea organ. We didn't get to see the light show, as we left in midday to drive down the coast to Split.

The coastal road was breathtaking. And then we got to Split. My googlemaps directions had nothing to do with the streets in town at all. We were so far beyond lost that a kindly man in a bar with a motorbike took pity on us and actually led us through town on his bike to our hotel parking lot before going back to his drink.

Phil ate frog's legs and polenta for dinner. I had seafood pasta and played with the local dog.

It was Good Friday, and we were lucky enough to stumble on the Mass of the Presanctified outside the Cathedral within the old Roman walls of Diocletian's Palace. Under the moonlight, in silence except for chanting and singing,  priests carrying lighted candles brought out the presanctified Host and revealed it to the crowd. Truly remarkable.

Number of times lost: 1. But since we had to be rescued by a half-toasted guy on a motorbike, it counts as at least 2 or 3.


  1. My paternal grandmother was from Split, I've always wanted to go. Tried to figure out how to take the ferry from Italy actually - seems doable but I was too scared to try it alone. Maybe next year! More pix please!

    1. It's the most fabulous city. You should definitely go! I'll post big #s of pix on FB in an album shortly.